Mongoose 2016 Argus Sport fat bike


from mtbr

  • day ride
  • dark ride

    As received
    • RD-M3000 rear Derailleur is low-end Shadow.  Mine shifts very poorly.
    • My medium Argus Sport top tube is about 29.5 inches directly above bottom bracket
      and 30.5 midway between head and seat tubes.  I have a 32 inch stand over...
      Medium Argus felt small to me because short steerer tube, while the neck seemed too long.


      Front shifter was redundant and omitted during riser bar installation;
      front derailleur, inner and outer chainrings were removed shortly after..
    • Bottom bracket is Feimin FP-B921/9SS;  BSA threaded 1.37"x24 TPI, 103mm shell, 160mm square taper spindle

    • removed large and small chainrings and replaced the rear derailleur with a used RD-M770 GS.
    • had been unable to consistently shift into 8 or 2 from 9 and 7 or 1 and 3, respectively.
    • Removed the rear wheel and tested the M3000 for rigidity before replacing; it failed.
    • With RD-M770 installed, flex is noted only in the hanger (replacement on order).
    • pedal bearing adjustment
    • original front brake pad was comptible with shimano M775 M595 M596 M965 M665
    • original Derailleur hanger replaced by Forest Byke 94
    • 2016 Argus has 180mm disc brake rotors
    • spoke tensions, checked with Park TM-1:
      24-26 on rear driven side, 22-24 on rear brake side,
      25-27 on front brake side, 23-25 on front right;
      A few outliers were tweaked to those limits.

    • Chain drop cured by installing OneUp 94/96 BCD 30T Narrow Wide.

      Bolt tabs required filing to fit Prowheel spider.


    • brake pads tinkle...
    • BB7 (perhaps clone) screwed to original front caliper bracket collided with slightly eccentric original rotor,
      cured by inserting a pair of generic 6mm stainless flat washers between caliper and bracket.
      7 inches of brake cable was removed at the same time (should have been done sooner).
      Braking feels much the same, but easier pad adjustment was the goal.
      Original inner pad had already worn significantly more than the outer.


    • After a sunrise session too bravely attacking ocean beach groins, spaced a couple hundred yards apart,
      mild throbbing was noted on a paved street.   Both rims and treads seemingly remained concentric,
      but Jug Pro 26x4.5 bead was sucked under for over 1/4 right front rim circumference.

      Deflating and reinflating while tugging on sidewall a couple of times to recover.


    • personal preference upgrades:
      saddle and suspension post, riser bar, grips, controls, rear rack, mirror,
      kickstand, bell, lights, narrow wide chainring, Pro 4.5 front tire, BB7s;
      spare RD hanger, missing links, stainless rotors and brake pads.
      Upgrading rear derailleur before 9 speed cassette wore out was unexpected...

    • Stock calipers were magnetic, but evidently not enough;
      tinkling disappeared after replacing rear caliper.

    • Chainstay width measures ~131mm @ widest sidewall,
      while forks measure ~ 136mm. Seatstays measure ~141mm.
      In other words, not ideal for Snowshoe 2XL tires

    • This rear rack fits well, seems sturdy and is relatively inexpensive:

      Brazeon mounts space braces out further than necessary,
      but arguable help protect rear brake and derailleur.
      Splash board is presumably less effective than a dedicated rear fender.
      Spring-loaded clamp is less flexible than bungee cords.

    • Q-factor is distance (parallel to bottom bracket spindle) between crank arm faces:

      2016 Argus Sport Prowheel SUOLO Q-factor measures about 230mm,
      depending on cranks' scrunch onto square taper bottom bracket spindle.
      230mm approaches the fat bike upper limit
      (With Turbine arms, Race Face 100mm bottom bracket also obtains 230mm).

      High Q-factors reportedly cause problems for some riders;
      I only discovered that was a consideration by reading,
      but might explain why sit bones with the same saddle
      and similar riding position feel different on other, non-fat, bikes.

      FSA specifies 209mm Q-factor for Comet fat crankset;
      FSA crankset for non-Sport Argus may be Mongoose-specific,
      but 209mm would suffice,
      since SUOLO crank arms clear Argus chainstays by 20mm.

      I never experience heel strike against a chainstay kickstand with SUOLO crankset,
      but probably would with FSA Comet crankset.

    • Argus Sport freehubs are steel and effectively immune to being grooved.
      My Sport has a QR axle; cassette lockring, typically wants around 350 in-lb torque.
      After glop removal, Sport's Suntour lockring displays 40 N.m or nearly 30 ft.lb
      (my 3/8 torque wrench maxed out @ 300 in.lb).

    • Front axle had slightly shifted, despite (original) QR being as tight as manageable.
      Classic QR problem; USA quarter is too large, but Canadian fits.
      Magic Marker the coin center, offer that up to the fork recess,
      then feed the QR skewer from the other side and spin it against that Magic Mark,
      then apply a regular center punch to that spin mark center.

    • Replacing the 2016 Argus Sport front Kenda Juggernaut Sport 4.0 with a Pro 4.50
      usefully improved handling on beach sand.
      Left: Pro 4.50; Right: Sport 4.0


    • However, more rear traction was wanted for traversing slopes,
      and there was still the occasional wipeout when e.g. changing direction on downslopes.
      At best, most nominal 4.6-4.9 tires reportedly measure little more
      than Pro 4.50's 111mm width at useful pressures on 100mm rims.
      (FWIW, 2016 Argus Sport rim widths are approx 95.7mm inside and 101.5mm outside.)

      Vee evidently decided to rehabilitate Snowshoes' reputation
      by offering 2XL sized to challenge many fat bike forks and frames.
      Left: Sport 4.0; Right: 2XL


    • Left: Pro 4.50; Right: 2XL


    • This Snowshoe 2XL weighs 1670 grams vs 1460 for the Pro 4.50.


    • Given approx 10 lb weight for front wheel+tube+tire, another half pound is not noticed.
      Clearance between Sport forks and 2XL sidewalls is about 6mm:

      .. with about 3mm clearance between corner tread knobs and crown.

    • Maintenance tip:  tire talc should NOT be considered optional

      ... neither should it simply be sprinkled into the tire;  spread it around
      e.g. using paper towel, including tubes and inside sidewalls. Before talc,
      reduce chances for sand grains to perforate tubes
      by scrupulously cleaning tubes, inner wheels and tires (I use old terry dish cloths).

      After musical tires, the most immediately noticeable change was more plush ride over small bumps,
      thanks to Pro 4.50 replacing rear Sport 4.0. Despite having seemingly plasticky and less supple sidewalls
      than the Pro 4.50, Vee's 2XL rides similarly. The 2XL+Pro 4.50 combination has less rolling resistance
      on soft wet sand than did Pro 4.50+Sport 4.0, with the 2XL @ 5psi, Pro @ 6psi and Sport @ 7psi.

      With chest and sinus congestion, conclusions about traction and handling are tentative
      except that the Pro 4.50 improves rear grip in sand over the Sport 4.0.
      In front, the 2XL flings more sand into the air (and my face) than did the Pro 4.50.
      2XL tread may have been designed less for steering and lateral grip than longitudinal traction.

    • replacing 4.0 with 4.50 rear tire effectively shifts ratios;
      11-tooth cog will be less used. However,
      generally reduced rolling resistance means higher average speed
      and no increased use of 36-tooth cog.

      I had anticipated replacing 30T chain ring with 28T, but no need.

      Despite non-magnetic (stainless) Presta valve stem, corrosion developed beneath rear rim retaining nut..
      Stainless and Aluminum are NOT friends when damp.
      Antenna installers put no-ox grease on fittings where aluminum touches stainless bolts.

    Lauf Carbonara fork

    Worldwide Cyclery offered 15% introductory discount from already competitive pricing.
    Gregg Kato's 'First Look: 2015 Mongoose Argus' claims that it has a
    "0 stack headset that allows you to put in an aftermarket headset adapter
    so you can upgrade it to a tapered fork."

    .. but that is not quite accurate, at least for 2016 Argus Sport.

    Cane Creek EC44/40 lower bearing cup has an insertion depth of 12.mm,
    but the Argus Sport head tube lower insertion depth is only a little over 9mm.

    A belt sander removed nearly 3mm from EC44/40 cup insertion depth,
    then finished using a flat file and deburring tool.
    Argus fork and lower headset bearing located EC44/40 cup,
    then held square steel bar around cup lip to gradually tap in place using a small machine hammer.


    Cane Creek's 40-series 52/40 crown race is too tight for my Carbonara;
    I did not think to first measure Lauf's crown diameter..
    Should probably instead use Cane Creek alloy 110-Series instead of steel 40-series.
    Cane Creek also has a 10-series polymer crown race, but it lacks seal of 40 and 110 series.
    FWIW, these are not actually crown races, since Cane Creek uses cartridge bearings
    having their own races.

    Argus spokes ~ 264mm and could be ~ 2mm longer.
    Spoke wrench is #2 or "C" (red).
    Park Tool spoke tension 25-26 left/disc side, 23-25 right.

    Argus fork with skewer and top cap 1070g
    Argus wheel & hub w/disc w/o liner 1760g


    Argus hub 300g
    - spoke hole center radius 29mm
    - flanges are 88.5mm apart

    Carbonara with axle and expander plug 1200g
    Argus wheel + DT Swiss hub 1680g


    DT Swiss 350 hub 216g
    - spoke hole center radius 29mm;  flanges are 96mm apart.

    Both hubs have 29mm spoke hole center radius, enabling spoke reuse.
    Any number of Internet wheel lacing How-To's discuss "key spoke",
    but IMO there are 8 "key spokes";  the hub flops around until all 8 are in place.

    After those, I proceeded by installing successive adjacent spokes,
    paired for third crosses to minimize spoke bending.

    The rim's valve stem hole was coated with gasket shellac to combat corrosion.

    ----

    Lauf fork was installed without cutting, using a 40mm carbon fiber headset spacer.
    Unlike others, Wheels Manufacturing's spacer clears Lauf's steerer tube.
    Lauf's instructions specify new-to-me carbon assembly compound for the stem.

    200mm rotor and 20mm post spacer are needed for Avid BB7 caliper.


    rear bearing adjustment

    Side play was discovered at rear axle while testing after 200mm rotor installation for Carbonara.
    After reviewing vid1900's rear hub messages, I dropped the rear wheel,
    found my 15mm cone wrench and 17mm box wrench, pulled the brake side rubber seal and began fiddling.

    Tightening the lock nut while holding the cone nut reduces end play from slightly loose to binding.
    The cone nut needed to be backed off about 1/2 turn from finger tight before tightening the lock nut.

    While this is my first fat bike, I have been maintaining road and mountain bikes for awhile,
    and am concerned that this hub seems relatively weak. A 190mm axle may stretch more than do 135mm axles,
    but this was after less than 500 miles. It had previously been adjusted when new then a week or so later.

    Planning ahead, the DT Swiss 350 Big Ride seems the lowest cost 190mm QR hub with strong reputation...
    FWIW, I was initially concerned that Argus' medium frame might be too small,
    but standover clearance is much reduced after tire and fork upgrades.

    Cut Bars on short stem

    Removing 30mm from each end of original (2016 Argus Sport) Mongoose bars,
    replacing original stem with the shortest cheap stem on eBay
    and clamping that on uncut Lauf steerer tube puts grips about where wanted.

    saddle tuning?

    I may have replaced the stock Argus Sport saddle too hastily.

    Until now, my favorite saddles have been
    Fi'zi:k's discontinued Kurve Bull, which is unpadded and was expensive,
    and WTB's more affordable Speed Comp, which is too padded.

    (I might prefer, but have not tried, pricier Speed models.)

    Those two saddles have in common cutouts in their composite/polymer shells,
    so that covers behave like miniature hammocks for sit bones.


    My Kurve Bull began creaking, so swapped on the Speed
    while the Fi'zi:k gets disassembled, cleaned, lubed and reassembled.
    When fetching the Speed, I noticed that the Mongoose saddle has
    1) screws to facilitate disassembly and reassembly
    2) star-shaped slices started in the shell beneath sit bones

    Perhaps those slices could be enlarged and/or cut out for improved sit bone conformity.

    Screws merely secure trim, which helps staples resist being pulled loose:

    Tuning surgery from the bottom will be less fun.
    Polymer shell is soft enough for X-acto blade to cut


    rear fender

    Kenda Pro 4.5 throws more sand at bottom bracket and chainwheel than did Sport 4.0.
    BMI Karts & Parts sold 29" X 4.5" Red Motorcycle Fenders
     

    back pedal

    My lock nuts are actually 12mm.

    Returning balls to greased bearing races is easiest using a grease injector (pointless marinade syringe or horse syringe).
    Cleaned balls stick to injector tip grease, then stick better to the greased races.

    I would not have expected those pedals to be rebuildable,
    and resin pedals are much kinder to shins than are alloy.

    FWIW, creaking thought to come from left pedal actually came from right square taper.

    derailleur hanger

    Not wanting to wait, I bought mine from Amazon

    It was stiffer than the original, but also brittle, breaking while straightening a second time.
    Probably cast and neither forged nor heat-treated.

    Cheaper replacements can be found on eBay by searching for Timberline instead of 94 (but not so cheap as AliExpress).

    2016 Sport rims

    Having changed 4 different tires over a half dozen times on either rim,
    difficulty of maintaining concentric tire bead against rims is frustrating.
    After fiddling with an original Jug 4.0 to get less than 2mm runout, then inflating to 9 psi and riding for a half hour,
    runout was up to 5mm, which at 15 mph is enough to generate a bumpy ride on flat smooth pavement.

    Sun City

    While working hide food into my 1973 Coventry Eagle's Brooks saddle, soon after moving to Sun City
    ... it struck me that bicycling here would not be about covering distance or running errands,
    and much higher rolling resistance makes the fat bike better for exercise than a road bike.

    SunRace STMS30 combined 10-speed shifter/brake lever

    For beach riding with a 4.5" tire @ 3-5 psi and 30T chainring,
    the stock 9-speed Sunrace CS M99 Cassette has a good range;
    36T was so slow that I had a hard time balancing
    with torque to bury the tire in sand
    and 11T was too tall to overcome rolling resistance
    except down grades with the wind.

    Moving away from the beach and inflating to 10 psi expanded those tires,
    which with bead runout left no clearance.  Reverting to original 4.0" Jug Sports
    reduced effective gearing to often want 11T cog,
    but step from 11T to 13T is excessive.

    Shimano's Acera ST-EF65 combined 9-speed shifter/brake works well with Ergon GP1 grips.
    While Shimano offers no comparable combined 10-speed control,
    both eBay and Walmart sold SunRace's STMS30 10-speed shifter/brake lever.
    It is no longer available...

    STMS30 cable pull shifting from 10 to 1 measured about 40mm,
    roughly matching 11T to 36T cog spacing on 10-speed cassettes, wanting a derailleur with about 1:1 ratio.
    Shimano's 11-speed RD-M8000 may be ideal, but an SRAM X7 9 speed Long Cage Rear Derailleur 1:1 (already on-hand) seems promising:

    ...with adequate range of motion and adjustment, but confirmation pending delivery of a KMC X10EPT chain.

    An STSM30 downshifts up to 4 gears per stroke, but upshifts only one.
    An Acera ST-EF65 downshifts up to 3 gears per stroke, but also upshifts only one.

    SunRace STMS30 shifter/brake lever review

    10-speed chain arrived; as hoped, SRAM X7 9-speed 1:1 derailleur range of operation suits STMS30 and 10-speed Shimano cassette.
    Shifts are more positive, but many miles of beach sand had worn shift ramps on 9-speed cassette teeth and chain.
    Shifts feel less springy; 25% longer cable travel per shift reduces impacts of cable stretch and housing compression.

    bench stand

    Replacing Nashbar portable stand freed up some floor space
    and simplified access to bench drawers while sacrificing 5x5-inch benchtop space:


    Retracting crosstube reduces droop, but pedals cannot rotate:

    This stand seemingly has been replaced by Conquer 400-BENCH-RS, changing color to orange and clamp knob to quick release.

    maintenance - 24 Sep 2024

    Argus fat bike resin platform pedal bearings have seized after < 2K miles;
    blame years pedalling along Edisto Beach shoreline.

    Most new platform pedals have metal pins;

    ... but not being a shredded skin fan,
    I installed an unused pair of similar all-resin VP pedals

    Ergon GP1 Grips were installed 8 years ago.

    "Wings" discourage concentrating weight on palms with bent wrists
    ... except that mine had over time rotated enough to want repositioning.

    Nearly all pedalling this summer has been in faster gear ratios, with a 42T chain ring.
    SRAM PG-1050 cassette has 11,12,13,14,15,16,17,19,21,23 teeth;
    swapping in my 48T ring will run the chain nearer cassette center for less wear.

    Chain ring bolts - 25 Sep 2024

    Rusty chain ring bolts resisted removal


    Tool only just OK on new bolts
    Tool in Nashbar kit (gifted from Graydon)


    Replacement double hex chain ring bolts are advertised as stainless,
    but were packed with desiccant and are magnetic:

    SRAM X9 Long Cage 9 Speed Rear Derailleur ESP - 16 Oct 2024

    Current RD still works OK, but a spare was cheap;  new jockeys cost more.
  • maintained by blekenbleu